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Our search for locating the ultimate Turkish street food , söğüş (read soe -gh -ues) in Istanbul started online after reading this post on Istanbuleats . The address given there is Kalyoncu Kulluk caddesi. Don't start typing it in your GPS software now. Cause the municipalities in Istanbul change names of the streets faster than any software. The name of the street on which Muammer Usta's sogus stand  is located has a new name now. Don't ask me what the new name is, since it's relatively hard to find your way by looking at street names around Taksim. Best way to find it is to look for the entrance of the Balık Pazarı (Fishermans Market) on Istiklal caddesi. Then walk to the end of the end of the street, asking where Asmaaltı cafe is in case you -like us- are not able to follow a straight line. Left of the cafe, there is a very modest stand, which ,according to its owner Muammer Usta, is the mother of all sogus stands. Sogus is served on paper towels. Don't ...

Turkey is a paradise for offal lovers. From very late night drinker's remedy Tripe soup to street vendor's cleaned intestine specialty Kokorec ( wiki entry link ) there is literally no part of the animal that is not eaten. The westernmost metropolis of Turkey, Izmir, has a very special offal delicacy to offer. It's name is Kelle Sögüs, and it is not well known outside of Izmir. Thanks to my lovely offal aficionado girlfriend from Izmir, I got to taste and fall in love with Sogus. Kelle means "head" in Turkish, and kelle sogus includes all the edible parts of the head of a lamb. I will not list you the ingredients, instead I will remind you of Von Bismarck's quote about sausages and laws ( link to the quote ). The meat is marinated, boiled and served cold in pita-like bread with minced onions, parsley and cumin. Enjoyed with a cold ayran, it may be my favorite street food, as the picture of me crying when I am eating sogus above demonstrates. Even though...